测试和识别保险丝问题

电路

什么是保险丝？
这是一款非常棒的小型设备，设计用于在电涌或其他过电流情况下自毁。
为什么有人会创建这样的设备？
很简单，为了节省放置的电路的其余部分。与更换整个电路相比，更换保险丝非常便宜。
由于保险丝是一个非常常见的需要更换的部件，我们认为有必要提供更多洞察他们的目的，如何测试和诊断它们，以及显示各种形状和尺寸的各种样式。
第1步：识别熔断的保险丝。
如果保险丝可以从电路中移除，那么确定它是否已熔断的最简单方法是进行连续性测试。
抓住万用表并选择连续性或电阻设置。
通过一起触摸引线，对仪表进行快速测试以确保其正常工作，直到听到蜂鸣声或看到0欧姆为止。
现在，在电路断电后，将引线放在保险丝的两侧，如果听到同样的嘟嘟声，并且仪表的电阻读数非常低，保险丝仍然很好。
如果您没有听到哔声，和/或万用表读数为OL，则保险丝熔断。
另一种测试保险丝的方法是用数字万用表测量保险丝两端的电压。
如果保险丝不易从电路中取出，这将非常有用。
为此，请保持电路通电并切换仪表以测量电压。
确保为直流电路选择DC，为交流电路选择AC。
采取适当的预防措施，使自己与危险电压隔离。
将仪表引线放在保险丝的两侧。
如果指示的电压很小或没有，则保险丝良好。
但是，如果电压存在差异（通常是全电源电压），则保险丝不良。
第2步：更换保险丝。
最好的做法是用相同规格的保险丝更换坏保险丝。
需要注意的一点是保险丝是快速还是慢速熔断。
在大多数情况下，慢速熔断保险丝可以用快速或慢速熔断器代替，但绝不能反过来。
慢熔保险丝用于电感电路。
一个例子是电机启动。
虽然电机额定电流较低，但在启动时它会先吸收更高的电流。
使用慢熔保险丝可以在短时间内容许较高电流，而不是长时间。
在这种情况下，如果有一个快速熔断保险丝，它会在超过额定电流时立即烧断。
最好坚持一开始就有的东西。
仍然有问题或需要帮助过保险丝？
观看下面的视频，然后前往我们关于此事的TechForum帖子。

以上来自于谷歌翻译

以下为原文

What is a fuse? It’s this awesome little device that is designed to self-destruct in the event of a power surge or other over-current situation. Why would anyone create a device like that? Quite simply, to save the rest of the circuit it is placed in. Replacing a fuse is hugely inexpensive in comparison to replacing the entire circuit that would otherwise be fried.
Due to fuses being a very common component that needs replacing, we thought it beneficial to provide a little more insight to their purpose, how to test and diagnose them, and to display various styles as they come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Step 1: Identify the blown fuse.

If the fuse can be removed from the circuit, then the easiest way to determine if it has blown is a continuity test. Grab a multimeter and select the continuity or resistance setting. Perform a quick test of the meter to ensure it’s functioning properly by touching the leads together until you hear a beep or see 0 ohms. Now, after the circuit has been powered off, place the leads on either side of the fuse and if you hear that same beep, and the meter has a very low resistance reading, the fuse is still good. If you do not hear the beep, and/or the multimeter reads OL, then the fuse is blown.
Another way to test the fuse is by measuring the voltage across it with a digital multimeter. This is helpful if the fuse is not able to be easily removed from the circuit. To do this, leave the circuit powered on and switch your meter to measure voltage. Make sure to select DC for DC circuits and AC for AC circuits. Take proper precautions to isolate yourself from dangerous voltages. Place the meter leads on either side of the fuse. If there is little to no voltage indicated, the fuse is good. However, if there’s a difference in voltage (typically the full supply voltage), then the fuse is bad.
Step 2: Replace the fuse.

It’s best practice to replace the bad fuse with one that’s identically spec’d. One thing to be aware of is whether or not the fuse is fast or slow blow. A slow blow fuse can be replaced with either a fast or slow blow in most cases, but never the other way around. Slow blow fuses are used in inductive circuits. An example would be a motor starting. Though the motor is rated for lower amps, at startup it will draw a much higher current initially. Using a slow blow fuse will allow for a tolerance of the higher current for a short period, just not a prolonged amount of time. In this situation if there was a fast blow fuse in place, it would blow as soon as the current rating was surpassed. It’s best to stick with exactly what was there in the first place.
Still have questions or need help crossing a fuse? Watch the video below, then head over to our TechForum post on the matter.

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